New Wave by Da Vittorio & PHÉNIX – That’s Shanghai

That winter chill has arrived and there is no escape until spring graces us with its presence. These next few months are going to be all about the hearty, homey dishes that keep the cold from seeping into our bones. Luckily, we’ve got a handful of new warm winter menus to get you through the icier months.

Verify part 1 here.

Da Vittorio New Wave is the innovative sister restaurant of three Michelin stars Victorya premium Italian place hailing from Bergamo.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

New Wave, as the name suggests, is all about taking traditional Italian dishes and reinventing them in a more whimsical and modern way, one that matches the UCCA Edge museum of contemporary art in which this restaurant is housed.

DSC07464.jpgHomemade focaccia, polenta stick from Bergamo, Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Executive Chef Francesco Bonvini and Sous Chef Nicoló Rotella introduce diners to new seasonal dishes, such as Amberjack “Aio Ojo and Peperoncino” (RMB178), a starter that bears the name of a Roman-style pasta made with garlic, oil and chilli. Here, however, the noodles are swapped for tataki-style Japanese yellowtail, brushed with homemade garlic mayonnaise, and sprinkled with mild chili powder and garlic chips. Fat slabs of hamachi are flanked by an herbaceous chowder of clams and parsley, as bright as it is fresh.

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Pumpkin is served in three ways with the Chicken liver pate (RMB158) – thin curly ribbons of pumpkin carpaccio entwined with pumpkin sour cream and sprinkled with a pumpkin seed crumble. The candied ginger helps further cut through the velvety richness of the pâté.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

A generous layer on the caramelized honey brioche toast served alongside the dish makes for a bite that is spectacular in both weight and flavor.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

He Bluefin tuna carpaccio (RMB198) it is dotted with bottarga, bringing an extra layer of saltiness to the dish that is further accentuated by drops of salmon roe. The fish rests on a salad of crispy artichokes, drizzled with a modestly sweet moscato wine reduction.

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A traditional Bergamo ravioli that is filled with veal, raisins and sage, the Casoncelli (RMB238) at New Wave reconfigures said dish with the plump raisins reduced to a sauce that imparts a grape-like sweetness along with a sage oil over the entire bowl of expertly pleated bacon-coated meatballs.

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A prudent companion for Pigeon Risotto (RMB368), the addition of pumpkin puree adds more freshness, reducing the amount of butter needed so diners don’t feel too full. Chongming pigeon breast is first dipped in beeswax, giving the meat a flowery fragrance, then dried and deep-fried. But the star of the dish is the vin brulè reduction, inspired by a type of Piedmont mulled wine spiced with anise, cinnamon and black pepper and stewed with warm fruits like apple and pear. The sauce is tossed with beef juices and then poured over the risotto perfectly al dente, juxtaposed against crispy spheres of pickled squash.

DSC07689.jpgAustralian M5 Roasted Beef Tenderloin (RMB498) “arrosto al latte” and four way potatoes, Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Wrapped in spring onions and baked in a flaky crust with black pepper for extra smoky flavor, the Patagonian toothfish “En Crosta di Pane” (RMB438) It’s Chinese chive head game, but prepared using Italian cooking techniques.

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After being shucked from the rind, the fish is placed in a barley risotto studded with dark morels, which crumble into buttery chunks between a foam of parsley and elastic snails.

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The audacity to serve not one, nor two, nor five, but nine portions of ice cream and gelato like the ice cream selection (RMB128) It’s a bold move, but when you make each individual flavor at home using only natural ingredients sourced directly from the same farmer near Chengdu, then you have every right to go big. The list currently includes pineapple, pumpkin, kiwi, raspberry, mango, pistachio, melon, hazelnut, and chocolate tonka bean. Choose your poison.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Other dessert offerings are equally brilliant, like the campari orange (RMB168) showcasing Hainan’s all-purpose green orange with orange marmalade and Campari inside a plush cake, finished with orange and Campari jelly, chocolate-dipped orange zest, and an orange juice slushie made with liquid nitrogen to resemble Dippin’ Dots. Each bite is a hint of bitterness rounded off by a refreshing citrus acidity.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

A thunderous crackle of cacao nibs opens to reveal an unexpected but welcome sorbet of milky mint, mint jelly, and chocolate cream atop a chocolate-coated biscuit-like biscuit. After eight (RMB168) – an upgraded version of the timeless combination of chocolate and mint.

The wine program curated by Head Sommelier Camilla Mora is a labor of love, compiled into one novel-sized tome to present viticulture as a kind of art, further reflecting the restaurant’s art museum space. The line features 80% Italian wines, hand-selected from unique wineries across the country, with a strong emphasis on Northern Italy, which pays homage to its Piedmont homeland.

View a list of Da Vittorio New Wave.

Located on level 2 of The PuLi Hotel and Spa overlooking Jing’an Park, PHOENIX presents intuitive French cuisine using the best and freshest quality ingredients, embodying Executive Chef Ugo Rinaldo’s philosophy of simplicity and authenticity.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

The dishes are ideal to pair with their enhanced wine selection, which focuses mainly on Burgundy wines.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Beginning with Le Caviar (RMB888)Japanese Hamachi is accented by aromatic hazelnut oil and

Perseus No. 2 upper Sichuan oscietra caviar. The caviar has been matured three times longer than most, resulting in a stronger flavor that is softened by Peruvian leche de tigre, a blend of lemon, ginger, cucumber, and fish sauce.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Hokkaido scallop folds are grilled over charcoal and unfolded like The Saint-Jacques de la Baie D’Hokkaido (RMB308). Fine twists of radish add crunch while Yunnan tree tomatoes are reduced with grapeseed oil in vibrant orange juice for a tart passion fruit-style finish.

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Candied for 21 days, Foie gras (RMB318) it’s smooth without feeling too slippery, dusted with Sarawak black peppercorns and crushed Sicilian pistachios, accompanied by figs three ways: freshly sliced, pureed, and baked until crisp.

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A tribute to the drunken hairy crab, the Cuisses de Grenouilles and Morilles (RMB428) see frog legs stewed in a Jura French yellow wine and butter sauce, paired with fluffy morels, snap peas and sage.

Chef Ugo’s piece de resistance, Carabinier La Crevette Sauvage (RMB888) pays homage to the Spanish carabinero red shrimp in all its possible forms. First, a large prawn is grilled over lychee wood, the smokiness balancing out the natural sweetness of the prawn.

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Next, a prawn confit is combined with citrus peel, Sarawak black pepper, rosemary and thyme, then covered in a powder made from prawn shells, crispy prawn legs and Guangdong Buddha’s hand. sliced, an overly aromatic citrus fruit.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

As a final complement, there is a third presentation of prawn tartare, prepared tableside with the zest of buddha’s hand.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Australian dry age Le Boeuf Wagyu M9 (RMB988) no further presentation required; as one of the highest grades of meat in the world, it can stand on its own as a prized dish. Seared for that expected crispy crust, the fat-laden meat is served with artichokes, asparagus and a barbajuan – a ravioli filled with ricotta and fried spinach commonly found on the French Riviera.

DSC07344.jpgL’Agneau en Trois Façons (RMB528) lamb loin, rack of lamb, lamb loin, vegetable petits-farcis, Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

One of the highest quality pigeons from China, Le Pigeon (RMB568) comes from Zhongshan in Guangdong. The brisket is rolled around a succulent hint of foie gras and then char-grilled before being smoked under a rosemary cloche, served alongside a Xinjiang plum sauce.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

The famous cheese cart made its way onto the PHÉNIX brunch, lunch and dinner menu, with a wide variety of more than 15 imported cheeses. Guests can wrap up their meal, or take a tasty break before the sweet treats, with Les Fromages Servis au Plateau (288 RMB for 3 options, 388 RMB for 5 options) including candied walnuts, brandy cherries and honey.

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Chef Ugo’s passion is in pastry, so the works of art that are called dessert at PHÉNIX should never be overlooked. Starting with a textbook Paris-Brest and Retour (RMB128)Effortlessly light puff pastry choux is piped with praline cream and etched with caramelized Piedmont hazelnuts.

DSC07364.jpgLe Fruits Rouges (RMB128) Fine forest fruit tart, vanilla cream, blackcurrant sorbet, extra virgin olive oil, Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

A chocolate lovers dream, Chocolate (RMB188) features chocolate mousse, ganache, sabayon, sorbet and sauce in a myriad of chocolate textures and flavors, topped with caramel sprinkles and sesame praline.

DSC07402.jpgpetit fours, Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s it

View a list of PHOENIX.


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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That’s]

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