A Sunday brunch at The Warwick, along with a Martini Tree of flavored lemon drop cocktails. Photo by Ryan Baker.
In 2019, after 40 years, Houston’s on Westheimer closed without notice. Fast forward to 2022, and the warwick now operates in that location at 5888 Westheimer. Since its opening, the restaurant has expanded its hours and added brunch, which is from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
The Warwick is elegant and has a exclusive dress code to match However, instead of being stifling, it has an energetic atmosphere. Several days a week, there is a DJ playing upbeat music. During Sunday brunch, which is when the Houston Food Finder was invited to visit and try some of the dishes, a smartly dressed man who played the saxophone would waltz around the dining room.
The service was friendly and timely, and our server displayed the kind of energy that made you feel as if you were just as excited to be there as the guests. The staff informed us that they recently went through retraining, and it showed.
The Warwick offers a few shareable entrees, including standards like Spinach and artichoke dip Y avocado toast. Initially, the Breakfast Quesadilla It seemed out of place on the menu. However, the combination of eggs, cheese and chorizo, which is dripping with grease (as it should be) is rich and sturdy enough to invigorate any (hypothetically) hungover food journalist. the Boardroom Breakfast Plate, which is huge and served on a wooden board, includes butter and pecan waffles, candied bacon, sausage, eggs, croissants, biscuits, green chili hash and fresh fruit. It is enough for groups of four or five.
Warwick’s selection of brunch entrees is small but creative. Diners can choose between dishes such as Gulf Shrimp and Grits, Lobster Benedict, Egg White Frittata Y Tres Leches French Toast. Breakfast purists can order the classic american: two eggs, Texas toast, green chile hash, and your choice of bacon or sausage.
Considering the high price and southern flair, both the Warwick Waffles and Fried Chicken ($28) and Smoked oxtail mincemeat ($34) feel delicate. That being said, the fried chicken is well seasoned and crispy. It’s paired with a show-stealing Butter Pecan Waffle and Maker’s Mark Syrup.
The oxtail hash, which comes with two eggs, has a powerful, earthy, spicy flavor that is warm and soothing at first, then the intensity builds and lingers. Overall the dish is delicious but could use contrasting flavors to brighten up the overwhelming spices. In addition, The Warwick offers three sandwiches, including the double burger. Warwick Cheddar Burgera hot chicken sandwich and a breakfast sandwich.
The establishment does not have a published dessert list, but everyone recommended the carrot cake. The cake is made from scratch by Mrs. Betty, the mother of one of the restaurant’s owners. The slices are massive, moist and not too sweet. It took a lot of restraint for her not to interrupt Mrs. Betty’s meal to tell her how impressive her cake is.
The cocktail options are a mixed bag. Like the food, the drinks at Warwick feature custom twists on recognizable classics. For example, him Espresso Experience, with vodka, espresso, crème brûlée syrup and Licor 43, it’s a game of hell. (Imagine an Irish Latino coffee with a big bite of vanilla and cinnamon.) Surprisingly, the most successful drink is the mimosa. Instead of using an overly sweet bubbly, Warwick uses a drier sparkling wine with a bready flavor reminiscent of champagne.
Other drinks, like martini treegive the impression of “doing too much”. While visually impressive, it’s a head scratcher. The trees come with six to twelve lemon drop martinis, in which the vodka has been replaced with tequila, and in six different flavors. A drop of tequila and lime is essentially a margarita, or a tequila margarita without the club soda, if you want to be more precise. Also, with the added flavors and Casamigos, a super sweet tequila, like the spirit, these are ultimately too sugary. It’s also puzzling why the cost is $150 for a tree of six cocktails and $300 for 12, which works out to $25 each.
The Warwick is an experience, and the chance to be there is clearly part of the cost. While not every plate (or glass) was a hit, the brunch plates that were delivered make it worth visiting this restaurant a second time.
The Warwick is open seven days a week. Hours of operation are Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to midnight, and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Brunch is only available on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Reservations available through available through Resy.